Available on: SteamVR (HTC Vive & Rift), Oculus Home (Rift), PlayStation VR, Gear VR, Google Daydream, and PC
Keep Talking and Nobody Explodes is easily one of the best VR party games out there, and, now available on Daydream, it’s also the most widely available. You can also find the game on SteamVR, Oculus Home, PlayStation VR, Gear VR, and PC (also Steam).
In Keep Talking and Nobody Explodes, the player wearing the VR headset will find themselves sitting alone in a room with ticking time bomb in front of them. The bomb has a series of ‘modules’ which are miniature puzzles that must be solved in order to disarm it. The only problem is that the headset player doesn’t have the bomb defusal manual…. That’s where the other players come in: using a smartphone, computer, or even a printed copy, anyone not in the headset can access the 23 page bomb defusal document in order to aid in disarming the bomb.
The player in the VR headset has to relay information to those outside of the headset, and vice versa. The non-headset players will us the given information along with a series of increasingly complex instructions in the manual in an effort to guide the headset-wearer through the correct defusal procedure. Any incorrect moves mean a strike, and three strikes means you’re out (and by “out” I mean dead). There’s also that darn timer which doesn’t care how many strikes you have, it’ll blow the bomb once it hits 0:00.
The game is a blast (pun potentially intended, depending upon how good you are), and offers fun for a wide range of people, even those who are not experienced gamers or may not have any interest in putting on a VR headset. Because it has discrete levels (and failures), it creates a natural flow of passing the VR headset around; once a bomb is disarmed or blows up in someone’s face, that’s a good time to give the next person a turn with the headset. For adult gatherings, there’s also clear potential for a fun drinking game involving exploding bombs and shots.
VR Pictionary with Tilt Brush or Quill
Available on: SteamVR (HTC Vive) or Oculus Home (Rift + Touch)
Pictionary is a classic board game where players receive a word and must draw a picture in order to get another player to correctly guess the word from the picture alone. Taking this concept and applying it to VR opens up a new realm of possibilities thanks to VR paint apps which let you draw in 3D with different colors, brushes, and effects. No matter which of the below platforms you’re playing on, you can play in teams (usually pairs) who compete for the high score, or a free-for-all, where everyone tries to guess at once and the correct guesser gets a point.
Tilt Brush (HTC Vive)
Tilt Brush, available for on SteamVR for the HTC Vive, has its own Pictionary functionality built-in (called Tiltasarus). Launch the game and rotate the Tools panel until you find the ‘experimental’ menu, then find the icon for Tiltasarus. Inside the headset you’ll be presented with a category and a word, but players outside the headset won’t be able to see it (even on the external screen). The player can then use Tilt Brush to draw the word and have everyone else look at the screen to guess what it is. You’ll want to set up your external screen (or maybe even connect to a big TV) in a central location to make it easy for non-VR players to gather around.
Quill (Oculus Rift & Touch)
If you’ve got Oculus Touch you’ll also have free access to Quill on Oculus Home. Unlike Tilt Brush, Quill doesn’t have its own built-in word generator, so you’ll need to give the drawer a word before they put on the headset. The Game Gal has a handy free Pictionary word generator that also lets you configure difficulty or category.
Just like with Tilt Brush, you’ll want to make sure your external screen is set up somewhere that makes it easy for the guessers to gather around and see the drawing.
The Playroom VR
Available on: PlayStation VR
PlayStation VR comes free with the excellent Playroom VR, which includes a series of mini VR party games. For the most part you’ll need a few extra PS4 controllers on hand, but at least one of the games only requires one controller.
You’ll get to chase your friends as a giant monster, hide as mice from a vicious cat, go ghost busting, and more. Some of the games are cooperative and others are competitive, offering a great mix of teamwork and versus play. The Playroom VR is a no-brainer for VR party gaming on PSVR and as an introduction for new VR players.
Part 1. How to set up and sync Google calendar with your iPhone
Part 2. How to sync multiple Google calendars with your iPhone
Part 3. How to sync shared Google calendar with your iPhone
Part 4. Google calendar won’t sync with your iPhone? Fix it
Part 5. How to sync iPhone calendar back to Google calendar
Part 1. How to set up and sync Google calendar with your iPhone
You may want to sync your Google Calendar with your iPhone in order to have access all the time and on any device at your Events. You can use Google Calendar to have in one place all events and notices related to Birthdays, Reservations for flights, restaurants, spa salons, and any important date from your life. Once you have entered all important Events into your Google calendar or the Events were included automatically via your Gmail account, you may want to have them all in your iPhone also.
In order to sync your Google Account with your iPhone, follow this step-by-step guide:
1. First step is to open your iPhone and go to your device’s home screen. 2. Next, go to the Settings and choose Mail, Calendars, and of course any items that you wish to be synced. There you can see “Add Account” and select “Google”. Just enter your logins, your name, your Gmail address and your password. Click on “Next”. 3. All your emails and calendar events from your device will now sync directly to your Google Account, if you selected the Mail tab and Calendar tab, for example.
If you wish to sync only your calendar, turn the others “Off”. This way, only feature that will be synced, it will be your Calendars.
You should open Calendar into your iPhone to verify that it was synced.
Part 2. How to sync multiple Google calendars with your iPhone
At first syncing of your Google Calendar with your Google Account, you will be able to see all your calendars from your computer on your iPhone. Always you have the option to hide and / or stop syncing certain calendars.
In order to change which calendars display or sync follow the steps below:
1. Go to your iPhone’s home screen and open any Calendar. Select “Menu” and then “Calendars to display”. 2. You will be able to see a list of calendars synced with your device. If you wish just to hide a calendar, without stopping it from syncing, uncheck it. 3. In order to change which calendars sync with your device, select “Calendars to sync”. You need just to check or uncheck the calendars to sync. Final step is to click on “OK”.
You should open Calendar to verify that it is syncing.
There is a limited number of calendars that can be synced. Google Sync is able to sync up to 25 Google Calendars with the Calendar app on your iPhone. You must select the language from your iPhone and set it to English (US) to sync multiple calendars.
You can select the calendars to sync to your iPhone by following the steps bellow:
1. Open your browser, like Chrome or Safari, on your device and go to https://m.google.com/sync/settings/. 2. You must to select “Sync” and sign in with your logins. 3. Next step is to select your device from the list of devices you have set up for Google Sync. 4. Final step is to select the calendars you want to sync and click on “Save”.
Part 3. How to sync shared Google calendar with your iPhone
You have multiple options to sync your shared Calendars, including Google Apps for Business by paying a monthly fee. Another option is to set up your Gmail account as an Exchange account. This way you will be able to sync your calendars, but by default it will only sync your primary Calendar.
In order to add more calendars on your iPhone just open the Safari browser on it and visit http://m.google.com/sync. Follow the steps below to sync your shared Google calendar with on your iPhone:
1) Open the Safari browser on your iPhone. Go to the m.google.com/sync. 2) Enter your logins for your Google account. You will be able to see the devices and you should select your iPhone for syncing shared Calendar also. 3) Choose the shared Calendars that you wish to sync with your iPhone.
Open your calendars and you will be able to see your multiple calendars listed under your account instead of just the primary one you had before. If any issue occurs, tap the refresh button or just wait a few minutes to pull in your new calendars. This should be sufficient, but if the problem persists and your calendars still do not show up, go to your settings. There, you should remove your Gmail account and then add it again.
Always make sure that you have been checked all your needed shared Calendars! If you wish just one Shared Calendar to be synced, then you should check just the checkbox related to “Work Calendar” (or your [name] Calendar).
Part 4. Google calendar won’t sync with your iPhone? Fix it!
If you manage carefully all the steps for syncing your Google Calendar with your iPhone, you should not receive any bug. But, in a few cases it might occurs issues when you wish to open your google Calendar on your iPhone.
It is possible to encounter errors when using Google Sync for iPhone. Below you will find a list with possible errors and ways to fix them:
#1. Errors with Accepting / Declining EventsMost of issues with Calendar are with Accepting and Declining events. You should know that iPhone is not able to Accept/Maybe/Decline events from invitation emails received through POP3. As a general fact, by accepting an Event invitation from Google Calendar this does not dismiss the existing event invitation on the iPhone.
#2. Errors with Secondary Calendar
Secondary calendar events with invites are read-only on iPhone. Thus, your iPhone cannot Accept/Maybe/Decline events on secondary calendars. You should be always careful to use the primary calendar in order to accept or decline invites.
#3. Comments are not synced with Google Calendar
The page Accept/Maybe/Decline has a field to Add Comments. Anyway you should know that the changes you make in this field, will not be synced with Google Calendar.
#4. Errors with Recurring Events
It might occurs several problems with the recurring events, like Attendee status changes isn`t syncing. If you are invited at many recurring events, select “Save for all events” after Accept/ Maybe/ Decline will only apply the change to the one selected event.
#5. Duplicate Event
Duplicate event created when changes are made across daylight savings time, it might occur when you make changes for an instance of the recurring event after the first event and remove the attendee, by selecting “Save for future events”. Sometimes, your iPhone doesn’t correctly make these changes. Thus, it can happen that you have two overlapping separate event series created in one day. You should know that it could happen for events created in the GMT time zone when the series of events spans a Daylight Savings Time boundary. If you create recurring events in June, and you make a change to an instance of the events in December, your iPhone will show you both events: the original event and the changed instance in the Calendar application.
Part 5. How to sync iPhone calendar back to Google calendar
Many iPhone users have difficulties to sync their iPhone calendar back to Google calendar. If you can imagine, there is just simple steps to follow and all issues are away!
In any case you have two options to sync iPhone calendar back to Google calendar. Both methods are conducted via two links that you will find them below with easy instructions to use.
1) Open your iPhone and visit https://www.google.com/calendar/iphoneselect. By accessing this link, you can enable all calendars that you need. 2) Go to your iPhone`s Settings and select “Mail”, and then “Gmail Exchange”. You should disable and then re-enable Calendars. 3) If you still have just one Calendar, then you should go to this page: https://m.google.com/sync/settings/iconfig/welcome?source=mobileproducts&hl=en. Here, you need to select each device and again select additional calendars. 4) Go again at your Calendar and voila, you have all your Calendars there! After the process is finished, just check that your calendars are synced back to Google Calendar.
Another way to find in a very easy way your iPhone Calendar into Google Calendar, it is to check if Calendars is on in your Gmail Account in Settings. Make sure the default calendar is your Gmail one and then make sure each calendar entry is listed as your Google Calendar.
The best way to get to Default Calendar is to go to your “Settings”, select “Mail, contacts, calendars” and scroll all the way down to Calendars, then default calendar and then check the name of your calendar under the Gmail. Just make sure that is not checked the one under “On my iPhone”.
GoPro is to action cams what the iPad is to tablets and Google Glass to ideas that never caught on. Not only did GoPro practically invent the sector, it has dominated it since day one. Since the GoPro Hero4+ launched a couple of years ago though, the company has faced falling sales and renewed competition, with the likes of the TomTom Bandit and Drift Stealth 2 bringing the fight to the action cam specialist.
The new Hero5 Black is GoPro’s comeback charge. It’s a camera that builds on the firm’s strong foundations with all the additional features users have been calling out for.
From integrated GPS to inbuilt video stabilisation and the arrival of a 2-inch touch screen display, this rugged 4K action cam is all change. Is this enough to get you upgrading though? We put it to the test to find out.
GoPro Hero5 Black: Design
The Hero5 Black isn’t much of a looker. Its matchbox style design is squat, square and has a slightly ugly protrusion. With the only splash of colour on its dull black and grey body being the red circled shutter button, it’s also a bit boring. None of this matters though. Aesthetics aside, it’s an uncompromising design win.
Firstly, the need for those clunky transparent housings is gone. The GoPro Hero5 Black is waterproof as is, no add-ons necessary. This compact, uncluttered design can be submerged to 10 metres, fresh or salt water, without trouble. Both the battery and SD card housing slots also feature waterproof rubberised seals without being a fiddly annoyance to open.
As well as being waterproof, the camera’s rough, tough plastic body with a rugged, grippy rubber finish is seriously robust. During our time with the camera, it got splattered with mud, dunked in the sea, dropped, knocked and banged, and after a quick wipe down always came out looking like new.
It’s a design that attunes itself to the situation too. It’s been up a mountain, down to the beach, through one of the busiest cities in the world and always been in its element. Thanks to its small, undaunting design, it’s accessible to all and at home whether you’re throwing yourself off a cliff or simply enjoying the view from the top of a skyscraper.
Despite this small, pocketable form factor, the camera feels strong and sturdy, and its grippy finish means it’s manageable whether your fingers are freezing on the side of a ski slope (or, in our case, on a Scottish hill in December), while wearing a pair of gloves or just chilling in the pool.
There is a slight catch though. If you actually want to mount the camera to anything, you’ll still need to put it into the accompanying housing. This plastic framework adds a bit of bulk but still keeps the camera small enough to slot into your pocket. It also adds the key mounting fixture to the base and is compatible with all manner of additional mounts and accessories.
Unlike the TomTom Bandit, there’s no quick-release clip mount here. Instead, the Hero5 Black continues with GoPro’s trademark twisting key connections. It’s a little bit fiddly, especially if your fingers are cold and wet, but it’s secure, and when you’re being active, that’s key.
GoPro Hero5 Black: Features
Another element of the GoPro Hero5 Black’s design is one of its biggest new features – the 2-inch touchscreen display that sits on the rear. This isn’t the first GoPro to have a touchscreen, but this one’s a little more useful thanks the lack of need of a waterproof housing.
Bright, vibrant and responsive, it makes the camera as easy to use as a smartphone. Settings are now scrollable and clickable rather than requiring you to endure endless button presses to navigate your way through a list of shooting options. Big, bold menu options make the camera a joy to use and the screen has the added benefit of letting you instantly view and edit your recently captured footage wherever you are, directly on the camera itself.
You’ll have to watch the battery life, mind you. Enjoying on the fly playback is a bit of a drain and battery life isn’t the camera’s strongest feature. You’ll get around 1.5 hours between charges while filming. Add 4K and GPS to the mix that and that time quickly tumbles. When you’re stuck in the middle of the wilderness that’s not very long. Although spare batteries are available, the camera’s not compatible with the power units from past GoPros, bad news for existing owners looking to upgrade.
Still, this touchscreen isn’t the only way the Hero5 Black improves its capture options. Camera out of reach? Don’t worry, you can now talk to it too. Just like Siri on the Apple Watch Series 2 or Alexa within the Amazon Echo, the Hero5 Black offers impressive voice-recognising technology. Say “GoPro, take a photo,” or “GoPro, start recording” and it’ll do just that. You can even ask it to drop in highlight tags for easier editing.
It works well too, although if you’re out in the wind, hearing the beeps that signify an accepted request can be difficult.
For those instances, there’s another solution. You can seamlessly sync up the camera to your smartphone using the free to download GoPro Capture app. Connecting via a WiFi signal produced by the camera, the app transforms your phone into a live viewer, letting you see through the eye of the camera lens in real time.
On-screen controls also let you capture stills or videos without touching the GoPro itself plus you can alter all the capture mode settings direct from the app. This is perfect for when the camera’s inbuilt screen is out of reach such as when it’s attached to a helmet mount or on the end of a selfie stick.
On the camera itself, things are kept clean and uncluttered, with just two physical buttons. If your recording just can’t wait, tapping the top-mounted shutter button will launch the camera and start recording instantly. Happy to take your time? Hitting the mode button on the side will turn the camera on with further presses cycling through its multiple shooting options including burst mode and timelapse. Once recorded, all content can be auto-synced with the cloud, but you’ll need to pay $5 a month to join GoPro’s subscription service for this honour.
GoPro Hero5 Black: Video Quality
OK, this is the bit that really matters. Fortunately, with the Hero5 Black, GoPro has absolutely nailed it. Video quality isn’t just good, it’s stunning. The headline grabber here is the ability to shot 4K footage at a pleasingly smooth 30 frames-per second. With rival cameras like the Bandit only capable of capturing 4K footage at 15fps, this gives the Hero5 Black the edge.
It’s not just the resolution that’s impressive though, it’s the whole picture. The wide angle lens offers a sweeping field of view creating broad, impactful shots. Thanks to a new image sensor, colours are also more lifelike than on past models. There’s clear definition and subtlety to tones with stormy skies and areas of light and shade really popping.
Break the camera out at night or indoors under harsh artificial lighting, and the impressive quality continues. You do lose some of the sharpness – this is a camera for outdoor play time – but footage is still sharp, vibrant and sharable.
This is a camera about more than just its 4K party piece too. With few able to make use of 4K playback, all the usual 1080p Full HD shooting modes are also there. These actually offer more freedom and a broader choice of shooting options. If you want impactful, slow motion footage, you can drop the resolution and increase the frame rate up to a massive 240fps using the touchscreen. It’s not ideal for every shooting situation, but for that one time stunt it can transform stunning footage into a truly epic sharable clip.
Shooting below 4K has another benefit: video stabilisation. A long called for addition, it’s finally arrived and is pleasingly effective. Having strapped the camera to both a dog at the beach and ourselves while trampolining, the resulting footage is surprisingly smooth. The camera will still rock and rattle about, but overall footage is more fluid than on past models. Unfortunately, like shooting over 30fps, it’s not 4K friendly.
It’s not just the visuals that give the Hero5 Black the video capturing edge either. Compared with past GoPros, sound quality has been boosted too. Stereo microphones give more direction to the captured sound, with the camera able to automatically switch between audio capture options to help reduce wind noise. This is great when filming while on a bike or running. Without the need for those old polycarbonate housings, sound’s also a lot cleaner and crisper than on past models.
GoPro Hero5 Black: Image Quality
Building on impressive video skills, the Hero5 Black’s image game is strong too. Capable of capturing 12-megapixel stills, results are bright, vibrant and engaging. Putting that smartphone in your pocket to shame, the big, high-quality lens and powerful sensor combine to create crisp, powerful shots.
There’s a beautiful natural gradient and warmth to colours and, like with the camera’s video skills, a stunning level of depth with blacks deep and immersive and colours sharp and bright.
For those who want maximum editing options, you can now also shoot RAW images. Yes, when the lights drop, so too does image quality, but it’s not terrible, far from it. Images don’t quite have the same level of depth and detail as when the sun’s out or the lights are up, but they’re still decent.
There’s not just one way to capture images either, but three. As well as being able to capture single images, there are burst and time lapse modes available too. Burst mode is the star of the show here and can often capture more impactful footage than a traditional video if you’re performing a certain stunt.
The brand new expensive computer will not provide you the level of joy that you are expecting from it without the lovely melodic tunes stored in your iTunes library. So you need a reliable and quick way to transfer all your favorite tunes to your new hard drive and start having all the fun. Therefore, the need for transferring iTunes library from your personal computer to Mac computer is inevitable. To transfer the entire iTunes Library from PC to Mac does not need you to be a system engineer. There are however multiple ways to accomplish this task and transfer your files easily from one computer to other. Let us explore some nice ways to use the iTunes backup and restore the wide variety of data to our local machines.
Method 1: Without External Hard Drive – Using iMusic (Highly Recommend)
Before you start your transfer process, reliable network connectivity between the two computers is needed i.e. between your PC and Mac. The iTunes software must be installed on both computers also. Your Apple id must also be linked to iTunes library in order to proceed successfully. In this first method of transferring iTunes library from PC to Mac machine, we will not make use of any external storage devices or hard drives. Instead, we will make use of the gadgets like iPod, iPad or iPhone. We need to choose a robust tool like iMusic to transfer the iTunes library from Personal computer to Mac.
iMusic is a powerful all-in-one multimedia management tool that has built-in features for transferring media files and fixing iTunes-related issues. One particular feature that stands out in this regard is the Rebuild iTunes Library feature that can be used to transfer the entire iTunes library from a Windows PC to a Mac in no time!
Download music from more than 300 music sites, including YouTube, by copying and pasting the URL.
Record unlimited music from any website or any audio or video playing in your computer with just one click.
Built-in music library let you browse and preview the lattest and hottest music from popular music sites.
Automatically save downloaded/recorded music to library for management and easy transfer.
Identify and tag music with artist, title, album, genre, and more with the latest ID3 tag technology.
Due to the fact that iMusic is compatible with both Microsoft Windows technology as well as Mac operating system, you will find it enjoyable not to run into OS compatibility issues. Follow the steps below to enjoy a convenient experience of transferring your iTunes library from PC to Mac:
Step 1: Download and install iMusic. Connect your device with your computer and click on the “Library” >> “Add” button on the top bar. Select the files from PC to iTunes Library.
Step 2: Disconnect your device from one computer and connect it with the other computer. Once you have connected the device, click on the “Toolbox”. Hit the “Rebuilt iTunes Library” on this new computer and select your device from the screen. Click on the “Start” button.
Step 3: Now, select the corresponding tab which is present at the top and click on the “Export to Mac”. This is the last step which may take some time depending upon the music present on your computer. Once the process is completed, you will see the pop-up on the screen showing the successful transfer.
Using the “Rebuild iTunes” feature is easy but you need to be cautious also locate folders yourself. This may take a lot of time to complete depending upon your computer speed and data files, but in the end, it leaves you happy and satisfied.
Method 2: Transfer With External Hard Drive
Keeping your iTunes files in one location makes your job easier for using this method. Then you can arrange a hard drive to copy all your files to it and enjoy transferring the data to a new location on the new machine. The best way is to you External Hard Drive or the USB depending upon the music library present on your computer. Before you continue, remember that this method will not work the Apple music and you can only transfer the tracks which are already present on your computer or you have purchased from the iTunes Library.
On your Mac computer, click open preferences and click iTunes. Then select advance and keep track of your music folder on your local PC.
Now select Organize Library and click on the Consolidate option. Now all your media and music files will be copied to your computer in the iTunes folder. The larger the size of your files, the longer it will take to complete. As soon as the process of Consolidation ends, you can quit iTunes.
The next step is to plug in the hard drive externally which has large free space available to hold all your desired data. Check the folder size and find out how much the size of your data in the folder properties is.
If your external hard drive is no formatted, format it before proceeding forward. The Apple iPod or iPhone can also be used as an external hard drive depending on how much space they have.
Once the external drive is formatted and connected, you can drop and drag the iTunes folder and start the process of copying the media files to external drive. Click Eject Hard Drive once the copying process is over.
Now move on to your Mac computer and locate your iTunes media folder on the new system. Connect the external drive to this machine and you are ready to transfer the iTunes library to your Mac now. If you do not want the existing music on your mew machine to be deleted, then copy those files and save them on the external disk.
Now all you have to do is to replace the currently existing media folder with the new one. All the playlists, ratings and songs information will be reloaded by the iTunes automatically once it is done.
Method 3: Transfer With Home Sharing Method
The Home Sharing Method is relatively an easy method to transfer the iTunes library from PC to Mac. The necessary condition to complete this method is to install the iTunes on the both computers first. Moreover, you will also need to use the same iTunes account on the both computer. Let’s see the step by step procedure to use the Home Sharing Method.
As soon as the Mac and old computer are connected to the same network using the Wi-Fi, open iTunes on them one by one.
Then on the first computer (with Windows), select the Home Sharing icon which will be seen on the left menu. Sometimes this icon does not appear due to Home Sharing being turned off, in this case, turn on the home sharing first.
After the Home sharing is enabled on both of your computers, you can see the Home sharing icon and click it. The Home Share Button can be created here by entering your known Apple password and id.
Now you need to assign permissions to your computer on which you are copying your iTunes library to. Click Authorize Computer on the Store Menu and again enter your Apple id and password.
In the left menu, click the Home Sharing icon now. Select all the files and music that you want to copy or select all if you need everything to the new machine.
Now the final step is to hit the Import button. Once done, the files will start copying onto your new computer without a delay. If network speed is good with a Wi-Fi connection, then the process will take only a few minutes. The transfer speed also depends on the size of your iTunes library items. That completes our third method to transfer the iTunes library from PC to Mac successfully.
All methods have their own pros and cons, if you don’t want to use the same iTunes account on both computers, the best way is to transfer the library using iMusic. Moreover, it will also save you a lot of time as you will not need to transfer the data from one computer to hard drive and then to the other computer. In this way, you can also preserve the library on your iPhone, iPod Touch or iPad. Which is your favorite method? Let us know in the comments.
The Huawei Fit is the fitness watch successor to the Huawei Band and essentially the Honor S1 just under a different name. The screen-packing wearable is part fitness tracker, smartwatch and sports watch that you won’t have to pay a premium to get your hands on it.
It’ll count your steps, log sleep and also tracks a handful of sports with a heart rate monitor in tow to measure your workout intensity. At $130, it’s not going to break the bank, but does put it in the same pricing realms as the Fitbit Charge 2.
It’s got a pretty big job on its hands convincing someone to go for the iOS and Android-friendly fitness watch over a Fitbit, Misfit or Withings tracker. So does it do enough to impress? We’ve been using the Huawei Fit for the past month to find out.
Huawei Fit: Design and comfort
While the Fit doesn’t exactly break the design mould, we’ve actually grown to like its minimalist look. There’s no physical buttons breaking up the streamlined body with a aluminium casing and soft, watch-style 18mm band that gives it a very Pebble Time Round feel as far as stature and the space it’ll accommodate on your wrist. It’s light as well at just 35g and we found it very comfortable to wear 24/7.
There’s a few different coloured bands on offer and the orange band we had is certainly the loudest and sportiest of the bunch. They’re also interchangeable too with a mechanism around the back to remove them if you prefer a more understated look.
The Fit’s focal point is the circular 1.04-inch, memory LCD always-on monochrome screen that’s surrounded by a sizeable bezel hogging up some of that potential extra space. For the simplistic nature of the menu screens, the small screen is a decent fit. It offers good visibility outdoors and there’s a backlight to aid your night-time workout sessions. It’s not the brightest, but we’re glad it made the cut.
There’s a big problem when you need to interact with the screen, though. While Huawei’s recent software update has improved the responsiveness, overall it’s still a mess. It doesn’t handle sweaty fingers well at all making it a nightmare to use during workouts. Switching between data screens or even trying to end a tracked workout session is often a fiddly and ultimately frustrating experience.
Something that the Fit does have in its favour is the fact it’s waterproof to a IP68/5 ATM rating so you can go swimming with it. That’s little consolation when the display is such a nightmare to use.
Huawei Fit: Activity tracking
In terms of fitness tracking, don’t expect anything out of the ordinary from the Fit. There’s a 3-axis accelerometer and a six-axis accelerometer and gyrometer motion sensor setup to track steps, measure distance and estimate calories burned. Unfortunately, it was often quite a way out from the fitness trackers we paired it up against. We always allow for some degree of difference in step count as all companies use their own algorithms to crunch the data, but it was noticeably higher on the Fit.
These motion sensors are also used to log sleep, which on the whole matched the Withings Aura and TomTom Spark 3’s automatic sleep tracking for accuracy but offered limited data.
What’s more disappointing is the sports tracking. There’s the option to track running, cycling, walking, treadmill and swimming but it’s mainly optimised for running. There’s no GPS on board here so you’re relying on the other motion sensors to record the data or your smartphone and that’s a problem. On several runs against the TomTom Spark 3 GPS sports watch it was at times 2-3 miles off the pace. Data that’s viewable on the watch itself is pretty limited as well. I wouldn’t feel comfortable relying on it for a run tracking session again.
Huawei Fit: Heart rate tracking
One of the few positives somewhat surprisingly is the performance of the optical PPG heart rate sensor. While we’ve had a pretty underwhelming experience with the majority of wrist based heart rate monitors, the Fit actually stands up to be one of the better ones we’ve tried.
Huawei isn’t doing anything drastically different on this front from a technical perspective. It still uses a light based sensor that flashes against the skin to detect blood volume and relay the heart rate data.
You can toggle continuous readings on or off to deliver on the spot readings and resting heart rate data, which can be useful if you how to interpret the data. Huawei doesn’t do a particularly good job of that but the readings are at least reliable based on our experience.
Left to right: Huawei Wear app (left and centre) and Polar Beat (right)
You can also use the heart rate sensor during sports tracking sessions giving you real time BPM readings. We put it up against the Polar H7 heart rate chest strap and was pleasantly surprised how well it did, even with high intensity training. You can see from the screenshots below of an interval training session on a treadmill that graphs were pretty consistent and there was only a 1bpm difference in the average heart rate data readings.
Huawei Fit: Notifications
The Fit does do notifications although it’s nothing to write home about. You can customise alerts from the app including native and third party applications like Instagram, WhatsApp and Facebook. While the range of notification support is welcome, it’s all a little wasted when they appear on the watch face.
That small display and big bezel means there’s little room for notifications to be displayed in a really useful way. Unless it’s the briefest of updates, you’re going to have to wait to scroll through the message before you know whether it’s worth breaking from your workout. You’re better off reaching for your smartphone instead.
Huawei Fit: App
When it’s time to review data, adjust watch settings or even set up workout plans, you’ll need to head to the Huawei Wear iOS or Android app. It’s a pretty consistent experience across both platforms and while on the surface it looks great, it doesn’t take very long to realise that it’s a very clunky experience.
At first glance everything seems to be well laid out with steps, exercise tracking, heart rate information, sleep tracking data given the snapshot view treatment on the main home screen.
It’s just a shame syncing that data is so temperamental. It’s been a long time since I’ve had to experience the kind of issues I had getting the data from the Fit into the app. Despite using it for than a month, it’s failed to save a huge amount of my workouts. That’s further compounded by the fact that workout history feels buried away that makes it very difficult to locate. Intuitive this most definitely is not. These are the kind of basics even budget fitness trackers get right and Huawei really disappoints on this front.
It’s a bit of shame because there are some elements that I do really like here. You do get some third party app support albeit only from a handful of apps (Jawbone, MyFitnessPal and Google Fit). The running training plans are a nice touch as well. While you’re not going to get the same level of sophistication you get from the customisable running programs you get from Polar or on the Adidas MiCoach platform, the plans are easy to follow and one of the few things that reliably syncs back to the watch.
Huawei Fit: Battery life
Another one of the few positives is the battery life. There’s an 80mAh battery on board that doesn’t sound all that impressive, but will get you six days making regular use of all the core features.
When you factor in the lack of a colour display that’s perhaps not all that surprising that it can go the distance. It’s really down to the optical heart rate monitor to sap the power, which can thankfully be turned off. Huawei promises 30 days in standby and we have every confidence that it’s capable of going the distance.